I have loved perusing the many surprising and beautiful ways in which you guys have hacked up run-of-the-mill IKEA bits and bobs and – inspired by this – I have made my own!

Necessity was the mother of invention here… I picked up this lantern for no other reason than I thought it was beautiful, and really had no use for it, but I REALLY needed some soft bedroom lighting for my new wife and I (thank you!).

Photo: IKEA.com

You will need:

• 1 x STABBIG lantern for block candle
• 1 x DIODER LED 4-piece lighting strip set
• 1 x Rotary Cutting tool (Dremel or similar) OR hacksaw (if you have the strength of will!)
• 1 x Drill with appropriate (for drilling metal) dia. 6mm min. drillbit
• 4 x roundhead (essentially NOT countersunk) screws
• 4 x appropriate (to your type of wall) wall plugs

There are 3 central sections that make up the cylinder – I used two of these and – placing them in the base – I marked a line on the base that spanned the width of the section.

I then marked out a ‘tab’ of about 1cm thickness and 2.5cm from each edge – this would be where the wall fixings went.  I wasn’t really bothered about where I put the holes, but as a guide, I placed them close to the dent in the base.  I used 6 x 30 mm galvanized steel screws – but whatever’s lying about that’s not countersunk will do – although I suggest a minimum 6mm dia.

NEXT, using a convenient corner die (a brick) I hammered the tab to 90 degrees.  You want the edges of the base to be tight to the wall so be careful when you bend!

NB:- I also drilled a dia. 10mm in the base, close to the bent wall bracket in order to put my LED strip cables through.

THEN…  err… I spray painted them gold – there is no real reason to do this – I just had some spray paint lying about!

THE FINAL EFFECT… Yes that’s booze in the background – a must when hacking IMHO!

PEN-ULTIMATELY I fixed two LED strips from the DIODER kit onto the insides of the two sections I wanted to use – I used double sided tape in the end as the glue gun didn’t adhere that well to the curved inner surface.

FINALLY all you have to do is line them up so that they are level and equidistant from your head board (IKEA hacked – of course!), mark the holes, drill, wall plug and screw the bases to the wall…

AND … put the connecting cables through – attach to the LED strips and slot each section into place – PHEW! Not bad for a few hours work…

You can see the final effect below:

My wife’s initial reaction: “is one slightly lower than the other?”

“No babe – your glasses must be wonky”…

I thought about cutting the third section in half and screwing it behind the lights for more reflection, but… Nah! You could also spray the wall behind directly, or use some reflective card – or even a mirror!

I hope this inspires you, like this site has inspired me!  Comments, questions and suggestions welcome!

The post Surprisingly elegant sconces from STABBIG lantern and DIODER lighting strip appeared first on IKEA Hackers.

Items used: SANDA — line voltage adapter (pendant connector), TROSS — ceiling track, 3-spots.

SANDA is a track lighting system. It has spotlights, which are expensive enough. Here is a method to make inexpensive spotlights combining SANDA adapter and ceiling track TROSS.

First of all you have to disassemble TROSS. Unscrew all parts. Spotlights fixed by small hex screws.

Secondly expand a little bit SANDA adapter hole. Then make a thread by screwing in and out TROSS spotlight. Connect the wires and put all the parts together as in the picture. And that’s it.

At present IKEA has a new SKENINGE system, and I think this hack might be applicable with its adapter.

~ by Daniel Volkhonsky

The post Inexpensive spotlights for SANDA lighting system appeared first on IKEA Hackers.

Photo: IKEA.com

A few months ago, Particle.io gave me a bunch of sample photons for mentioning them in my DefCon 24 talk. I needed something to use them and that reading lamp that is not connected to my home automation is bugging me…

So, the Ikea TIVED is a simple Led on/off floor lamp… not anymore! Add a Particle Photon to it and you have a dimmable Led Internet of Things:

• One can still turn the light on & off via the foot switch.
• Now one can also turn it on & off via the internet.
• It’s also now dimmable!

The hardest was  fitting everything in there!

First, you need the following:

Top left: Particle Photon (w/out headers as it won’t fit anymore!)

Top right: Generic transistor. I had a TIP-42 PNP laying around. DO NOT ATTEMPT to wire the Led through the Photon… you’ll fry it!

The case of the foot switch. How did I open it you ask?! Yes, those screws are in the way!

Not to worry… an electric screwdriver with a flat head and sufficient vertical force will unscrew them

Critical mods to the plastic shell:

• for the base: remove the top clips and carve a slot for the board to sink into. Also cut part of the screw stands.
• for the cover: thin the cover as much as possible and trim some of the screw post and button cylinder.
• for the button: take out part of the flange.

Wiring is relatively simple:

In other words, D1 is the controller of the transistor that powers the switch.

D6 reads the status of the foot switch to turn things on or off.

Here’s the source code:

<code>

#include “math.h”

int dim = 0;
int toggle;

void setup() {
pinMode(D1,INPUT);
pinMode(D6,INPUT_PULLUP);
toggle = digitalRead(D6);
Particle.function(“SetDim”,SetDim);
Particle.variable(“DimValue”, &dim, INT);

}

void loop() {

if (digitalRead(D6)!=toggle)
{
if (dim>0)
dim =0;
else
dim = 254;
toggle = digitalRead(D6);
}

for (int i=0;i<100;i++)
{
if (dim<254)
{
//off duty cycle
if (getPinMode(D1)!=INPUT)
{
pinMode(D1,INPUT);

}

delayMicroseconds(1*(254-dim));
}

if (dim>0)
{
//on duty cycle
if (getPinMode(D1)!=OUTPUT)
{
pinMode(D1,OUTPUT);
digitalWrite(D1, 0);
}
delayMicroseconds(1*(dim));
}
}

}

int SetDim(String command) {
/* Particle.functions always take a string as an argument and return an integer.
Since we can pass a string, it means that we can give the program commands on how the function should be used.
In this case, telling the function “on” will turn the LED on and telling it “off” will turn the LED off.
Then, the function returns a value to us to let us know what happened.
In this case, it will return 1 for the LEDs turning on, 0 for the LEDs turning off,
and -1 if we received a totally bogus command that didn’t do anything to the LEDs.
*/

dim = (254*command.toInt()/100);
return dim;
}

</code>

Once you have it all wired, do test before going further… I had to try a couple times before I could fit everything and still have functional electronic!

Now beyond being able to turn on & off your lamp with the foot switch, you can control that lamp from the web by posting to https://api.particle.io/v1/devices/[deviceID]/SetDim  with params=[DimValue]&access_token=[AccessToken] as the post data where DimValue is between 0 (off) & 100 (full on)

Here’s a simple curl request for testing:

curl https://api.particle.io/v1/devices/[deviceID]/SetDim -d params=50 -d access_token=[AccessToken]

Enjoy!

– by Fred

The post IKEA TIVED, now an IoT floor lamp appeared first on IKEA Hackers.

IKEA items used:

• 3 x STRÅLA Star Pendant Lamp Shades (White: 703.325.34, Brown: 903.325.33 or Red: 703.325.48) (£11-£16, but currently on offer plus IKEA family discount)
• 3 x STRÅLA cord sets (203.330.79) (£3 each)
• 1 x TROSS 3-spot ceiling track (602.626.59) (£6 each)
• 3 x LEDARE candle-shaped opal dimmable E14 bulbs (can’t find on website) – could use any similar bulb

We bought one of these Star Lamp shades in white for our new nursery, but when I investigated getting a smart dimmer switch it became apparent that one LED lamp wouldn’t give enough load for it to work. Also I thought that the light wouldn’t be bright enough to light the room. In the shop these lamps are often seen hanging in clusters so I came up with this hack to neatly provide a similar effect at home!

Remove the lamp holders from the TROSS ceiling track:
– First remove the small grub screws either using a small Allen key or a pair of pliers.
– Then unscrew each lamp holder – this can be quite tough but a bit of force should get them to unscrew. I removed the inner screws so that the ceramic lamp holder can spin without twisting the cable up.
– Unwire the lamp holder’s cords so that you can pull them out – I tied some string to the outer two cords before pulling the lamp holders off completely so that I could pull the new cord back through.

Cut off the switch and plug end of the STRÅLA cord sets, leaving an appropriate length for each and thread through the bar of the TROSS track – leave them slightly longer so that the length can be adjusted later. I tied some knots in the cords on the inside of the base to stop them pulling back through when I was happy with the lengths. If there is excess cord within the base it can be trimmed.

Strip the wires and connect together (neutral/blue and live/brown) – I used some extra connection (“chocolate”) blocks to help with this but you should make sure you know what you’re doing! Electricity can kill if you get it wrong!

Hang the lamp, attach the shades and install the bulbs (I used Ikea dimmable ones, but any candle-shaped LED bulbs with an E14/SES fitting would work.

I haven’t got photos of the progress as there isn’t much to show (and I’d rather not give anyone without electrical knowledge any ideas!).

~ by Jonathan

The post Stråla-Tross Star Chandelier appeared first on IKEA Hackers.

IKEA items used:
– FLIMRA drinking glasses of different sizes
– SECOND cord sets
– LACK TV unit (for the white panel)

I started by drilling holes of about 8mm [5/16 inch] into the drinking glasses, this was the tricky part of the project and took me several months. You’ll find a lot of hints how to drill holes in glasses, for me after some trial and error I had success using a diamond drill and applying cellophane tape to the place where I drilled. Using a drill press instead of a handle drill greatly reduces difficulty. Make sure you buy some spare glasses in case you break some during the process.

From the LACK TV unit I only used the thin board, leaving me material for future hacks. (Credit for this idea goes to this hack.) I decided not to have the lamps hanging in one line as it makes things harder and any error visible, so drilling these holes was easy compared to drilling glass.

When I assembled my lamp, I cut some piece off the bulb socket in order to have the bulb not sticking too far out of the glass in the end. I used a couple of cable ties to reduce the pull forces that the glasses may execute to the cable in the end. When assembling, I made sure the holes in the board are on the upper side, as I could perfectly turn screw hooks in for hanging the lamp. I also used hot glue to fix the terminals to the board on the upper side in order to keep the cables as invisible as possible.

~ by Beni Mahler

The post FLIMRA pendant lamp from drinking glasses appeared first on IKEA Hackers.

I used the Ikea Blanda Blank metal bowl to create this lamp, and then made a video tutorial.

For this lamp I used a common film lighting trick, bouncing a bright light off the ceiling, to evenly increase the light in the room without creating a dominating source.

The principle is to use the white ceiling as a giant reflector to spread a powerful light source evenly over the space. To achieve this I took a large metal Ikea mixing bowl, highly reflective, and used it to focus the output from a 100 watt bulb onto the ceiling.

I used as thin wires as possible to attach the bowl to the cable, to prevent the wires from casting shadows and to make the lamp look like it is hovering.

Factors like size of the room, or distance from the bowl to the ceiling will also effect the light quality. The closer the bowl is to the ceiling the brighter the light will be, however, when further away it will spread the light more evenly across the ceiling and thus over the room.

I installed this one in my living room where I think it works exceptionally well. The room is massive, which gives me lots of ceiling to work with. When it’s on you can see everything, which is what you usually want from an overhead light in this type of space, but the room still has a low-key atmosphere. Also the bright ceiling and dimmer evenly lit walls help the room feel contained, whereas a harsh overhead bulb would be more uncomfortable.

~ by Otto Stockmeier

The post Blanda Bowl Lampshade appeared first on IKEA Hackers.

Chase’s version of the PS 2014 lamp, activated by motion. First, he hacked it into a desk lamp and rigged up the pulley system to a servo so it can open and close using a sensor programmed using Ardiuno.

The original light which was just a standard bulb was also changed into a 7cm circular ring LED strip, to save space in the lamp cavity.

A 5v sonar sensor acts as the switch for the servo in the lamp. When it detects the motion within the specified distance (12 inches), the lamp will either open or close.

See a video of it in action, visit this link.

Download project documentation in a PDF

~ by Chase Hinshaw

The post Arduino Motion Activated PS 2014 Lamp appeared first on IKEA Hackers.

IKEA item used: VILDAPEL plant pot, bamboo (Article Number: 902.336.13)

The IKEA VILDAPEL plant pot made of bamboo can be used as a simple stand for recessed spot-lights. The spotlights can beam straight upward or at an angle depending on how the pots are placed. The spotlight stands can be placed below flowers or behind the couch which will make a beautiful ambilight.

A hole has to be drilled in the correct size of a recessed spot in the bottom of the plant pot for a straight-up light or in one of the sides for a diagonal beam.

I used 12 Volt multi-color recessed spots from iDual with a nice remote control which provides several nice color programs!

Required material:

• IKEA VILDAPEL plant pot, bamboo (IKEA Article Number: 902.336.13)
• Recessed Spotlights e.g. Jedi Lightning iDual Recessed-Spots with remote control or any other spots
• Transformer and cables for the spots (do not use high voltage spots!)

Required tools:

• drilling machine
• hole driller
• sand paper

Steps:

Mark the holes (e.g. by using diagonal lines for the bottom)

Drill hole in bottom (take care as the driller can be stuck and rotate the pot!)
Use the sand paper to remove any sharp edges

Cut a small gap in one of the edges of the pot for the cable in case you drilled the hole in the bottom
Insert the spot like it would be inserted in a ceiling fixing it with its clips (see photo)

If more space is needed, rotate the spot at 45°, so that the clips can fix the spot in the whole
Place the spots below flowers or behind furnitures like a couch.

Turn on the light and enable your preferred multi-color program.

Happy crafting,

~ by Roland

The post Bamboo Spotlight Stand using IKEA VILDAPEL plant pot appeared first on IKEA Hackers.

Ikea items:
– Idealisk grater
– Sekond cord set
– Ryet LED bulb

GrattugiaLamp is an idea born to create an original lamp for my new kitchen.

The hack is very simple:

1. Pierce Idealisk handle in the center with a drill press.

2. Thread the Sekond cord through the drilled hole and assemble Sekond lamp holder. Screw in Ryet bulb.

3. To give a touch of creativity to your GrattugiaLamp, before assembly, spray paint the Idealisk grater with the most suitable tint to the room where it will be installed.

~ by Andrea Balboni

The post Make this unusual lamp for your kitchen appeared first on IKEA Hackers.

This is to make a pair of Minimalist bedside reading lamps, taking advantage of the hollow core of the LACK shelves.

What you need:

• any LACK shelf
• NYMÅNE ceiling light
• ANSLUTA AC power cord

Photo: IKEA.com

1. Dismantle the NYMÅNE light to get single light elements.

2. Make a hole at the back of the LACK shelf and remove the paper core.

3. Drill a hole on the face of the LACK shelf, where you wish to position the light. Thread the wires through the hole on the face of the shelf to opening at the back of the LACK.

4. Screw the NYMÅNE single light onto LACK.

5. Connect the Ansluta power cord and complete the assembly.

6. Hang up the LACK shelves according the IKEA assembly instructions.

That’s it. The lamps looks fantastic and are out of the way.

~ by Mira from Plzen, Czech Republic

The post Minimalist bedside reading lamps appeared first on IKEA Hackers.

IKEA items used:

• HEMMA floor lamp base $18
• JARA lamp Shade 17” (not available on website – a RULLAN shade could work also).

After seeing a birch floor lamp in a local store for $400 I thought I could make it for much less. I purchased 4 – four foot, birch 1-1/2” to 2” logs on Amazon. $45 delivered.

Tools:

• Drill
• Cable Ties (I happened to have 8” on hand, but you can use longer or shorter and link them together)

Position the branches to be sure any natural arch falls towards the lamp, this makes the final product more stable.

Drill a hold through the back 1/3 of the birch branch – 1 “ from the top of the branch.

Cable tie all the branches together, leaving the last cable tie open

Put the 4 branches on the base of the lamp and pull them together with the cable tie at the top of the lamp as shown. (be careful not to drag and scratch). Position of the branches at the base does not matter at this point until the cable tie is fully secure at the top.

Arrange the branches as you prefer (I made mine a 4 legged and spread out – you could secure the base to have a different look.

~ by Kary

Here are other hacks you may like: Tree branch floor lamp, Pendant lamp from birch branch, Driftwood lamp and Torka branch lamp.

The post Beautiful Birch Branch Floor Lamp appeared first on IKEA Hackers.

Here is my new project for a new cotton cloud ceiling light:

This is what you need:

• 6x LYSBOJ Ceiling lamp
• 6x LED light bulbs
• 2x KRUSNING Pendant lamp shade, 17″
• thin steel wire
• white cables for the wiring

Photo: IKEA.com

Steps for Cloud Ceiling Light:

1. First mount LYSBOJ lamps without the shades on the ceiling and wire them together in a row with the white cable.

2. Screw the bulbs in.

3. Then crumple the sheets of the KRUSNING lamp shades like you would crumble a paper and tie on pieces of thin steel wire in the length of at least 50cm on several positions of the sheets.

4. After this tie the wire ends to the plastic parts of the LYSBOJ lamps and arrange the LYSBOJ sheets all over that the light bulbs and the wiring can’t be seen from the outside and it all looks like a cloud on the ceiling. You can use staples or glue to fix the lamp shades all together. Cut the wire ends which are too long.

Important: Make sure that there is enough free space between the lamp shades and the light bulbs.

~ by Vendela

Like clouds? Then you’ll love these cloud ceiling lights and more.

Make a cloud pendant light from the Varmluft lampshade and fake snow. Love how cotton candy soft it actually looks.

Nimbus Luminous, the moody cloud ceiling light. For full effect, turn this on when a storm is gathering.

A cute cloud night light housed in a RIBBA picture frame.

A woolly cloud under your feet

Another as a welcome mat

The post Light up with a whimsy Cloud Ceiling Light appeared first on IKEA Hackers.

I recently remodeled my own home and I was working on the dining room. I got the whole thing finished except for the lights over the dining table. I looked everywhere for lights that seemed to reflect my own personality…could not find them, even expensive ones.

I happened to be at IKEA one day and was browsing the kitchen products when my eyes locked on the ORDNING stainless steel colanders…..perfect, I thought.

Photo: IKEA.com

The ORDNING colanders come with handles on the sides, so I carefully knocked those off, using a regular hammer, and sharp blows to the handles. It takes a few hard hits but they come off pretty cleanly.

I combined the ORDNING colanders with HEMMA light cord sets, and with some other minor things from the hardware store along with a scrap of solid surface countertop, I pieced together the Colander Chandelier in the pictures.

I used some left over bead chain I had around to hang the light with. I considered IKEA light bulbs but decided on large round globes instead to finish the look.

I had to drill a slightly larger hole in the bottom of each colander and I inserted a metal lighting accessory tube threaded on the outside and nuts to hold it tight. The cord of the HEMMA light fits up through the tube. That same tube was inserted through the solid surface sheet and bolted tightly to it. I combined the cords of all three lights together and connected them to the power cord that went to the ceiling junction box.

The holes in the sides of the colanders allow light out to give the room more light.

And there you have it.

~ by Tom Robbins

You may also like these modern dining table lights

Beautiful nest lamps made entirely out of Löbbo shades. See how it’s done..

A beautiful lighting solution for a dining room, made from Rönas candleholders and Sanda track lighting. Unfortunately, both are discontinued. But it could trigger some ideas! Read more.

The MASKROS pendant lamp is perfect for the dining room, especially after this one super easy twist. Read more.

The post A Colander Chandelier, a modern dining table light appeared first on IKEA Hackers.

Wardrobe light with Trådfri GU10 lamps compatible with Philips Hue. I made it to light up my PAX wardrobe externally. Lamps can be dimmed to a minimum.

Nymåne spot lights art. nr. 703.377.01

Trådfri GU10 art. nr. 803.652.70
Compatible with Philips Hue.

Photo: IKEA.com

8 mm plywood 67 mm x 267 mm with a 35 mm hole in 1 end rounded after spots diameter.
12 mm plywood 60 mm x 67 mm for distance over sliding doors.

Shrinkable tubing

Electric cable 2 x 0.75

De-mount the spots

Mount the big plastic plate on the plywood.

Mount the spot and lock the spot to the plywood by screwing the small plate to the spot.

Place the small plywood on the big one. For distance to the sliding doors.

Connect the wires by soldering them, and use shrinkable tubing to isolate the wires from each other. Use 10mm x 8mm (I’m not sure) cable tray to hold the cables.

Lastly mount the plywood holder to the top of the PAX wardrobe and voilà! Spot lighting for the wardrobe.

~ by Ervin Olsen

The post Wardrobe light for PAX appeared first on IKEA Hackers.

My name is Gille Monte Ruici, I make sculptures, and particularly bots, starting from recycled matter and of waste.

Few months ago I already sent you two hacks. (See them here and here).

Here is a new one, called : KROBY the snake lamp.

To do this I used a KROBY light fixture.

Photo: IKEA.com

Originally, I had the standard model. I wanted to customize the luminaire to match the spirit of the room, where it is now installed.

I kept the structure, which I completed with metal washbasin siphons. These twists thus represent the body of a snake.

At each end, I dressed the lamps with grid lamp shades. Finally I fixed barbecue hooks reminiscent of the mouth of the snake with its venomous hook. The set gives a very airy and unique support!

See the catalogue of Gille’s works or connect with him on facebook.

His robots are also featured in the book Assembled: Transform Everyday Objects Into Robots.

~ by Gille Monte Ruici

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Gille’s IKEA robot lamps

The IKEA KVART lamps were added to these bots as “arms”. See more.

This is a younger version of the KVART bots, with the addition of 2 feet from a Sultan bed, besides KVART lamps. Read more.

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The post Kroby, the snake lamp appeared first on IKEA Hackers.

The JANSJÖ is a nice design, energy efficient and cheap lamp, which I wanted to hack into a LED spotlight. It wasn’t very hard, if you know what you’re doing. It took about an hour’s work and about €1,50 for additional components. The bonus point is the mains unit fits nicely into the foot. But before you embark on this hack, 3 things! Safety, safety, safety. Mains voltage is deadly. Bad connections cause fire.

IKEA items used:

• JANSJÖ LED lamp

Materials:

• Small pieces of wood
• Hot melt glue
• Luster terminal
• Soldering iron
• 20mm VDR (optional)

Tools:

• Hot melt glue gun
• Common tools like Saw, Screwdriver, Drill

How to hack the JANSJÖ LED table lamp to an LED spotlight

Part 1 : Dismantle

Dismantle the mains connection unit: take the Printed Circuit Board (PCB) out of its housing.

Keep some wire length on the low voltage side. (black wires in my case).

Mains unit housing and the switch are now obsolete

Dismantle the LED light armature.

Remove the ballast weight from the foot.

Part 2: Prepare

Prepare three pieces of wood or likewise isolating material:

– one piece is not too thick for the middle to allow you to screw the flexible arm onto it. Drill holes in this piece upfront. Measure the distance of the two screws of the flexible arm. Add an additional hole for the supply leads to the lamp.

– Two pieces with the thickness of the inside of the foot. Do not drill upfront.

Part 3: Hack!

Solder the lamp low voltage wires to the PCB.

Screw the mains wires of the PCB to the luster terminal.

Optionally connect a 20 mm, 230V VDR (Varistor, See picture) parallel to the mains. This will elongate the life-time of the electronics, especially in countries with overhead mains supply wires.

VDR (Disc-Varistor)

Mount the PCB, the luster terminal and the pieces of wood with hot melt.

Make sure the low voltage wires can NEVER come near to the mains wire. I pre-fixed the wires with a pieces of tape, before end-fixing them with hot melt.

Drill holes from the outside part of the armature’s foot, through the pieces of wood with e.g. a 4,5 mm drill (see photo above, I kept the drill bit in, in order to illustrate this). You might want to measure the distances of the bolts in the “central stuffing box” in the ceiling. In my project, I used the largest distance, in order to screw outside the ceiling unit

Central stuffing box (Dutch model)

Disconnect the mains voltage. Verify the mains voltage is disconnected at your ceiling unit.

Wear isolating shoes, try not to work with two hands. Have an assistant present to guard you work.

Mains voltage across the human body is instantaneously deadly.

Now the lamp can be connected to the mains wires of the ceiling unit. Optionally with additional pieces of wire (see the white wire in the picture).

Screw the JANSJÖ LED spotlight to your ceiling.

The bottom plate is not needed for ceiling mounting. This version is however NOT suitable for wet rooms or outside or room with temperature changes. Any condensation water inside the unit would be a hazard for fire or electrocution.

~ by Hans Driessen

 

The post Change a JANSJÖ table lamp to a ceiling LED spotlight appeared first on IKEA Hackers.

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I really wanted a floor lamp that would hang a nice looking shade + bulb over my IKEA dining table. I couldn’t find any that I liked, so I bought the REGOLIT floor lamp with the intention of getting rid of its super oversized lamp shade.

It took several days to get the design down and test several different materials. Any wood lighter than balsa would have weighed down the lamp too much. The balsa was a bit expensive, I’d say not including my time it was about $40 in materials (which included some trial and error to be fair).

I like how warm the light coming off of the balsa looks.

Materials:

• REGOLIT Floor Lamp
• Balsa Wood sheets (1/16″)
• Clear acrylic sheet (1/8″)
• Laser Cutter (or you can purchase these pre-made parts online, see link at end of message)

REGOLIT Floor lamp | IKEA.com

How to hack an alternative REGOLIT floor lamp shade

I used Rhino (3d modeling software) to create a CAD model of the lampshade. The shade consists of 3 parts:

• The fins
• The smaller top acrylic ring (That attaches to the actual light fixture)
• The larger bottom acrylic ring (That helps keep the fins together, and gives a subtle twisting effect)

In the picture showing the disassembled parts, you can see the acrylic rings have notches. These should be the same width as the material you are using.

The notches on the top ring are at a more extreme angle than the bottom ring. This is to better obscure the lightbulb at the top of the shade, and let more of the light pass through at the bottom of the shade.

I used a laser cutter to cut out the profiles of the fins in 1/16″ balsa wood sheets, as well as to cut out the acrylic rings out of 1/8″ cell cast acrylic. There are 1/8″ wide notches at the top of the fins to line up with the top acrylic ring, and notches (like little shelves) on the bottom of the fins to hold up the bottom acrylic ring.

To assemble, you first take the top ring and secure it to the REGOLIT light fixture, using the included screw-ring to keep it in place.

Then you attach a couple of fins on opposite sides of the top ring. Take care during this step as they will just be hanging their unsupported until the bottom ring comes into play.

Now place the bottom ring in between those two fins. Make sure it is aligned with the top notch. I just counted how many empty slots I had in between fins on the top ring, and made sure I left that many open between fins on the bottom ring.

Now just keep filling in the fins. It will become more stable the more fins you add.

I like to make sure the top notch lines up with the top ring before I slot the bottom notch under the bottom ring slot.

The making of the lamp took a bit of trial and error. Getting the notch sizes right took some time. Also finding the right material. I tried other woods and veneers and they were much too heavy – the lamp was literally touching the table.

I love how well it pairs with the REGOLIT floor lamp base. I feel like the scale of this shade compared to the one it comes with is more appropriate (just my opinion).

This shade is actually for sale on my website if anyone is interested, see the link here.

~ by Brian Harms

The post Balsa Turbine Shade for the REGOLIT floor lamp appeared first on IKEA Hackers.

I created this table lamp and its name is BLANDA BLANDA. It’s shaped like a turtle.

I used the BLANDA BLANK steel serving bowls.

Blanda Blank | IKEA.com

The biggest bowl I used as the lamp base, the smaller bowl as lamp holder.

I made a hole in steel bowls using a drill with a steel cutter. Then I joined the two bowls through the lamp holder. The bulb is the LEDARE led lamp E27 1000 lumen.

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Related: A Verner Panton Flowerpot lookalike from Blanda Blank bowls

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Related: A Blanda Blank ceiling light

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See my table lamp on my Instagram.

~ by Giovanni, Italy.

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